Helen Dryden was born in Baltimore in 1887, the daughter of
Celius Owings and Alice Fuller Dryden. The family moved to Philadelphia’s
Chestnut Hill community when Helen was about 7 years old. There, she attended
Eden Hall, Torresdale, Pennsylvania and Mrs. Comegy’s School in Chestnut Hill.
Even during her childhood years, young Miss Dryden showed unusual artistic
ability. She designed and sold clothes for paper dolls. Eventually, she sold a
set of her paper dolls and dresses to a newspaper for use in its fashion
section. This, in turn, led to a position as illustrator for Anne Rittenhouse’s
fashion articles in the Philadelphia Public Ledger and The
Philadelphia Press.
Dryden was largely self-trained, a factor she suggests
"...is why my work is so entirely my own. It is a combination of things I
like, in the way I want to do them, rather than an unconscious reflection of the
ideas of an admired master." Her formal education consisted of 4 years of
training in landscape painting under Hugh H. Breckinridge and one summer school
session as the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts.
Deciding that she had no real interest in landscape painting,
Miss Dryden turned her attentions once again to fashion drawing. She found,
however, that fashion illustrations of the day had little appeal. Even French
fashion prints during the first decade of the 20th century were uninspiring,
featuring men and women in knee-britches, powdered wigs, and billowing, brocaded
skirts. Although fashion magazines were steadily growing in importance in
America, they, like their French counterparts, featured lifeless figures drawn
in a functional, realistic, and uninspiring manner solely for the purpose of
displaying clothing designs.
Unhappy with the hapless fashion drawings of the day, between
1908 and 1912, Paris couturier Paul Poiret commissioned artists to illustrate
his designs in a more elongated, simplified style. Although some of these
fashion drawings were incorporated in booklets for Poiret’s clients, it was
not until 1912 that French fashion magazines started incorporating Poiret’s
techniques.
At about the same time Poiret was creating a new style of
fashion drawing in Paris, Helen Dryden, expressing disappointment in the state
of fashion illustration, created a portfolio of drawings using a more simplified
style. Miss Dryden noted that she "...saw a chance to simplify fashion
drawings to the few essential features that would embody the very essence, as it
were, of the mode." After moving to New York in 1909, Miss Dryden spent a
year trying to interest fashion magazines in her drawings. None, however, showed
any interest in her work and many were harsh in their criticism of her work.
Miss Dryden was particularly disappointed in her rejection by
Vogue. Founded in 1892, Vogue introduced innovation into fashion
writing and Miss Dryden hoped that they would similarly recognize the need for
change in fashion drawing. She later recalled, however, "...that cold
winter morning when I was turned down by Vogue. I was very young and very
poor and when the fashion editor’s secretary handed me back my drawings,
saying ‘She doesn’t like them—doesn’t think they are any good,’ I left
the building with tears running down my cheeks, vowing that I would never go
back to Vogue. I peddled my drawings about without success for a
year."
Less than a year later, however, Miss Dryden found herself
back at Vogue. In the intervening year, Conde Nast had assumed management
and set out to make changes. Upon seeing Miss Dryden’s drawings, he directed
the fashion editor to contact her about preparing fashion drawings for Vogue.
Her prior pledge quickly forgotten, Miss Dryden agreed. After her initial
fashion drawings were well received, Dryden was commissioned to prepare her
first cover.
Dryden was soon under contract to Vogue and over a 13-year
period ending in 1922, prepared both fashion drawings and covers. After leaving
Vogue to free lance, Miss Dryden became a frequent cover artist for Delineator.
In addition to her prolific career as an illustrator, Miss
Dryden launched a successful career as a costume designer. In 1914 she designed
the costumes and scenery for the musical comedy "Watch Your Step"
starring Vernon and Irene Castle. This was followed by designs for several other
stage plays, including "Claire de Lune," the fanciful drama based
loosely on Victor Hugo’s romance. Although the play starred Lionel and Ethyl
Barrymore, Helen Dryden’s costume designs were generally given equal credit
for the play’s success.
Like many other noted artists and stage designers such as
Norman Bel Geddes, Lurelle Guild, and Russel Wright, Helen Dryden turned her
attention to industrial design following the 1925 Paris Exposition although she
also continued her career as a freelance artist. Her industrial design
accomplishments include a candleholder and lamp designed for Revere. It was her
design of the 1937 Studebaker President, however, that established Helen Dryden
as an important industrial designer. Studebaker ads proudly proclaimed the fact
that the car had been designed by Helen Dryden. Dryden went on to become Art
Director for Dura Products, a major automotive parts manufacturer that also
dabbled in giftware manufacture.